Author: Hale Hahalua

Lapakahi was established more than 700 years ago by early settlers. It used to be a fishing village right at beautiful Koai’e Cove, which was one of the rare spots where they were able to land their canoes. The rolling hills of the Kohala volcanoes sheltered them from the strong winds you can experience in the Northern part of the island (some of our pictures give that fact away, as well).

Take the two loop trails (0.5 and 0.3 miles) and experience what life might have been like 700 years ago. Admire burial sites, historic houses, wells, salt making stones, a heiau (temple) and even a Halau Wa’a, where the canoes were stored. Some of the strucutures have been partially rebuilt in modern times, but many things you will see date back to when this village was a bustling center for Hawai’ian families.

Lapakahi State Historical Park is located on Hwy 270 to Hawi, about 12 miles north of Kawaihae Harbor and is open daily except for State Holidays from 8:00am to 4:00pm. Please check on the Department of Land & Natural Resources website (link below) if there are any additional closures or restrictions. On their website you may download the park brochure (PDF) to save paper. From Keauhou it takes about 1 hour to get to the park by car. Please stay on the marked trails, do not move rocks or climb on rock walls and take your trash with you to protect this historically important place. While swimming is not officially prohibited, regularly occuring dangerous shorebreaks and strong currents may convice you to stay on land. Best time to visit is early in the morning or later in the afternoon.

Lili’uokalani Gardens is named after Hawai’i’s last monarch, Queen Lili’uokalani, and was dedicated in 1917 as a tribute to Hawai’i’s first Japanese immigrants who mostly worked on the island’s sugar cane fields back in the day. At 24.67 acres this is believed to be the largest Japanese garden outside of Japan.

Admire this beautifully landscaped park with pretty bridges arching over fishponds, rock gardens, pagodas, stone lanterns, and even a teahouse. From here you can enjoy the view of Hilo Bay and Mokuola (Coconut Island). This park, including Coconut Island, is very popular with the locals. If you can, visit during the week when it is less crowded.

Lili’uokalani Gardens is located at Banyan Drive close to Downton Hilo and is open 24/7. There is plenty of parking on Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street. Please stay on the pathways and take your trash with you to preserve this gem for locals and visitors alike.

Would a trip to Hawai’i be complete without attending at least one lūʻau? Maybe, but it would be significantly less fun! A lūʻau means lots of more or less traditional food with something for everyone, it means music, dancing, storytelling, it means buying carved tiki figurines from good-humored vendors, and also learning some hula steps, Hawaiian games, and Hawaiian history – and it usually means fire-eaters making a splash during the show’s splendid finale! If you have the time and money to spare, we highly recommend planning for a lūʻau while you visit the Island.

The term lūʻau actually refers to a traditional food often served during Hawaiian celebrations – octopus or chicken cooked with taro leaves and coconut milk (pretty delicious concoction, by the way!). Reporters in the 19th century weren’t exactly famous for their fervor for accurately representing foreign cultures, and so they apparently misconstrued “lūʻau” to refer to the feast itself, and the name stuck.

While we typically enjoy the food at a lūʻau as much as the next guy, we mainly go for the storytelling and entertainment. Many of the (in our opinion) better lūʻaus will make sure to tell you a little bit about the dances you are watching. You may learn, for example, that hula is not simply beautiful, elegant movement, but it is a formalized, expressive dance where each movement mirrors the meaning of the corresponding mele (song). Some lūʻaus will also convey a bit of history about how the Hawaiian Islands were discovered and settled by Polynesian seafarers.

Even though you may learn a lot about Hawaii and Polynesia when attending a lūʻau, this type of celebration is not as deeply rooted in Hawaiian tradition as you might think. The first ever lūʻau, referred to as “aha’aina” then, was apparently put on in 1819. Up until then, the ancient kapu system of laws had, among many other things, forbidden women and men from eating together. King Kamehameha II, spurred on by his guardian, Queen Ka’ahumanu, abolished the kapu system in 1819, put simply, by having a meal with Ka’ahumanu and his mother Keopuolani. Since then, lūʻaus have become much less of a political statement, and more a typical style of celebration in Hawai’i for anything from a wedding to a graduation to a birthday.

So while it is a great way of experiencing traditional Hawaiian grindz alongside vibrant entertainment, a lūʻau is not only fun for the whole family but can also be a good way to start learning about Hawaiian culture. Sometimes, lūʻaus have apparently devolved into mere circus shows with lackluster food, but we have two recommendations for lūʻaus on the Big Island that will not only feed you well but also teach you a thing or two about Hawaiian tradition and culture.

While you collect your drinks at the bar, the food is served at the table rather than having to get up and fill your own plate at a buffet. There is taro chips, tropical fruit, and sweet bread rolls for starters, and the main course includes the classics like lomi lomi salmon, squid lūʻau, ube, kalua pork, white rice, and kalbi ribs. For dessert, we were served some mini malasadas.

Before the show starts, you are invited to learn some basic hula steps from some of the dancers, and there’s also a few vendors that typically stay until after the show. You pick up your drinks from a unique, canoe-shaped bar and get to watch the imu ceremony, where a whole pig is unearthed from the traditional earth oven it has been baking in for a day.

The Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park (a. k. a. place of refuge) is a must-see on your visit to the Big Island of Hawai’i if you are at all interested in Hawaiian culture. On top of the plethora of things you will learn about the life of the ancient Hawaiians, the Puʻuhonua’s 182 acres boast a beautiful setting on the ocean that is truly unparalleled.

When you visit, you will be greeted by a gift shop and an invitation to visit respectfully. Please know that this is not an amusement park specially set up for the enjoyment of tourists, but it is an ancient cultural and spiritual site that is still today being used for religious purposes. We find it easiest to think of it as a church and try to visit accordingly. Take your time exploring the park and soak in the tranquility and sense of peace and calm this incredible place has to offer.

Don’t forget to have fun, though! Make it a point to listen to the fascinating ranger talks and watch the film presentations in the gazebo right by the entrance throughout the day. The ranger talks are a special highlight, as they are incredibly knowledgeable and will happily and honestly answer all questions you may have. They will also teach you how to pronounce the name of this place. Also, marvel at the fierce-looking Ki’i (wooden statues) while you try to decipher their meanings, sit on the beach and play a game of kōnane (a bit like checkers), take hundreds of pictures of the birds and plantlife throughout, and watch local crafters weave baskets, carve canoes or wooden images, keeping ancient techniques alive. Most days, you can also spot hundreds of Yellow Tang and Green Hawaiian Sea Turtles (honu) from the shore while you stroll around the Puʻuhonua grounds.

If you’re visiting other National Park Service sites such as Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park or Kaloko-Honokōhau during the same trip, it may be worth buying an Interagency Pass that will get your party into all U. S. National Parks, National Historical Parks, National Forests, National Monuments etc. for a year.

While you are in the area, we also recommend snorkeling at one of the prime snorkeling spots on the Big Island: Two Step, which is right next to the Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau.