Lapakahi State Historical Park

Lapakahi was established more than 700 years ago by early settlers. It used to be a fishing village right at beautiful Koai’e Cove, which was one of the rare spots where they were able to land their canoes. The rolling hills of the Kohala volcanoes sheltered them from the strong winds you can experience in the Northern part of the island (some of our pictures give that fact away, as well).

Take the two loop trails (0.5 and 0.3 miles) and experience what life might have been like 700 years ago. Admire burial sites, historic houses, wells, salt making stones, a heiau (temple) and even a Halau Wa’a, where the canoes were stored. Some of the strucutures have been partially rebuilt in modern times, but many things you will see date back to when this village was a bustling center for Hawai’ian families.

Lapakahi State Historical Park is located on Hwy 270 to Hawi, about 12 miles north of Kawaihae Harbor and is open daily except for State Holidays from 8:00am to 4:00pm. Please check on the Department of Land & Natural Resources website (link below) if there are any additional closures or restrictions. On their website you may download the park brochure (PDF) to save paper. From Keauhou it takes about 1 hour to get to the park by car. Please stay on the marked trails, do not move rocks or climb on rock walls and take your trash with you to protect this historically important place. While swimming is not officially prohibited, regularly occuring dangerous shorebreaks and strong currents may convice you to stay on land. Best time to visit is early in the morning or later in the afternoon.

Location

HI-270, Waimea, HI 96743, United States

Lapakahi State Historical Park

Liliʻuokalani Gardens

Lili’uokalani Gardens is named after Hawai’i’s last monarch, Queen Lili’uokalani, and was dedicated in 1917 as a tribute to Hawai’i’s first Japanese immigrants who mostly worked on the island’s sugar cane fields back in the day. At 24.67 acres this is believed to be the largest Japanese garden outside of Japan.

Admire this beautifully landscaped park with pretty bridges arching over fishponds, rock gardens, pagodas, stone lanterns, and even a teahouse. From here you can enjoy the view of Hilo Bay and Mokuola (Coconut Island). This park, including Coconut Island, is very popular with the locals. If you can, visit during the week when it is less crowded.

Lili’uokalani Gardens is located at Banyan Drive close to Downton Hilo and is open 24/7. There is plenty of parking on Banyan Drive and Lihiwai Street. Please stay on the pathways and take your trash with you to preserve this gem for locals and visitors alike.

Location

189 Lihiwai St #151, Hilo, HI 96720, United States

Lūʻau

Would a trip to Hawai’i be complete without attending at least one lūʻau? Maybe, but it would be significantly less fun! A lūʻau means lots of more or less traditional food with something for everyone, it means music, dancing, storytelling, it means buying carved tiki figurines from good-humored vendors, and also learning some hula steps, Hawaiian games, and Hawaiian history – and it usually means fire-eaters making a splash during the show’s splendid finale! If you have the time and money to spare, we highly recommend planning for a lūʻau while you visit the Island.

The term lūʻau actually refers to a traditional food often served during Hawaiian celebrations – octopus or chicken cooked with taro leaves and coconut milk (pretty delicious concoction, by the way!). Reporters in the 19th century weren’t exactly famous for their fervor for accurately representing foreign cultures, and so they apparently misconstrued “lūʻau” to refer to the feast itself, and the name stuck.

While we typically enjoy the food at a lūʻau as much as the next guy, we mainly go for the storytelling and entertainment. Many of the (in our opinion) better lūʻaus will make sure to tell you a little bit about the dances you are watching. You may learn, for example, that hula is not simply beautiful, elegant movement, but it is a formalized, expressive dance where each movement mirrors the meaning of the corresponding mele (song). Some lūʻaus will also convey a bit of history about how the Hawaiian Islands were discovered and settled by Polynesian seafarers.

Even though you may learn a lot about Hawaii and Polynesia when attending a lūʻau, this type of celebration is not as deeply rooted in Hawaiian tradition as you might think. The first ever lūʻau, referred to as “aha’aina” then, was apparently put on in 1819. Up until then, the ancient kapu system of laws had, among many other things, forbidden women and men from eating together. King Kamehameha II, spurred on by his guardian, Queen Ka’ahumanu, abolished the kapu system in 1819, put simply, by having a meal with Ka’ahumanu and his mother Keopuolani. Since then, lūʻaus have become much less of a political statement, and more a typical style of celebration in Hawai’i for anything from a wedding to a graduation to a birthday.

So while it is a great way of experiencing traditional Hawaiian grindz alongside vibrant entertainment, a lūʻau is not only fun for the whole family but can also be a good way to start learning about Hawaiian culture. Sometimes, lūʻaus have apparently devolved into mere circus shows with lackluster food, but we have two recommendations for lūʻaus on the Big Island that will not only feed you well but also teach you a thing or two about Hawaiian tradition and culture.

Feast & Fire Lu’au at the Keauhou Outrigger

This lūʻau, which is within walking-distance of our condo, is pretty new, but you can not tell from the proficiency of the dancers and singers, the deliciousness of the food, or the welcoming salesmanship of the vendors. Before the (funny! beautiful!) show starts, you can roam the grounds, shop at the little booths that vendors such as Makau Nui have set up, craft your own flower crown or play a game of ʻulu maika with the friendly and engaging artists from the show. Only downside, for me, was that the vendors packed up and left once the show had started. On the other hand, that may have saved me a lot of money…

While you collect your drinks at the bar, the food is served at the table rather than having to get up and fill your own plate at a buffet. There is taro chips, tropical fruit, and sweet bread rolls for starters, and the main course includes the classics like lomi lomi salmon, squid lūʻau, ube, kalua pork, white rice, and kalbi ribs. For dessert, we were served some mini malasadas.

Location

78-128 Ehukai St, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740, United States

Feast & Fire Lu’au at the Keauhou Outrigger

Voyagers of the Pacific Lūʻau at the Royal Kona

We went to this Lūʻau once as paying guests and have witnessed parts of it countless times from a room in the Royal Kona’s Lagoon Tower or from Don’s Mai Tai Bar. (The line “Kailua Kona, where the Sun is born” from one of their standard songs is permanently stuck in my head, and I love it.) It is absolutely worth the price of admission for both the food and the beautiful and educational, traditional show.

Before the show starts, you are invited to learn some basic hula steps from some of the dancers, and there’s also a few vendors that typically stay until after the show. You pick up your drinks from a unique, canoe-shaped bar and get to watch the imu ceremony, where a whole pig is unearthed from the traditional earth oven it has been baking in for a day.

Location

75-5852 Ali‘i Dr, Kailua-Kona, HI 96740, United States

Voyagers of the Pacific Lu’au at the Royal Kona

Mauna Kea

Whether it be stargazing, taking pictures of the elusive silversword bloom, or simply gaining a new perspective on things, a drive up Mauna Kea is always worth it.

The summit of Mauna Kea is 4,207.3 m (13,803 ft) above sea level. Thirteen telescopes for astronomical observation have been built on top of Mauna Kea. And even though they are closed to the public, they make for good parking and photo opportunities. ^^ Since the peaks of the island of Hawaiʻi are sacred to Hawaiians (Mauna Kea being the most sacred), you may want to consider making one of the neighboring cinder cones your ultimate goal, rather than the summit itself. And, in any case, visit respectfully.

As the road is paved up to the Visitor Center at around 9,000 ft, you can drive your (rental) car there. If you would like to go higher, you will need a 4×4 with manual first/second gear. Rangers are there to check each car trying to go past the Visitor Center. The Visitor Center is a great location to acclimatise before pushing on toward the top. Stop in to learn about the observatories at the top, and Ellison Onizuka, or you can walk around the area and find Mauna Kea silversword, a plant that only grows on Hawai’i, only at this particular altitude, and will only bloom once every few years.

You may even choose to stay at the Visitor Center for stargazing. It is not as chilly here as it is at the very top, and the stars are just as amazing from here. Also, if there is research activity going on in the observatories, you may be asked to leave the summit area soon after dark.

There is nowhere that we know of to buy food or drink on the mountain, and there is no gas. So come prepared, and, of course, pack out whatever you bring.


Location

Mauna Kea Access Rd, Hilo, HI 96720

Just look for the huge volcano to the North of Saddle Road. 😉

Center for Maunakea Stewardship: www.hilo.hawaii.edu/maunakea/


Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park

The Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park (a. k. a. place of refuge) is a must-see on your visit to the Big Island of Hawai’i if you are at all interested in Hawaiian culture. On top of the plethora of things you will learn about the life of the ancient Hawaiians, the Puʻuhonua’s 182 acres boast a beautiful setting on the ocean that is truly unparalleled.

When you visit, you will be greeted by a gift shop and an invitation to visit respectfully. Please know that this is not an amusement park specially set up for the enjoyment of tourists, but it is an ancient cultural and spiritual site that is still today being used for religious purposes. We find it easiest to think of it as a church and try to visit accordingly. Take your time exploring the park and soak in the tranquility and sense of peace and calm this incredible place has to offer.

Don’t forget to have fun, though! Make it a point to listen to the fascinating ranger talks and watch the film presentations in the gazebo right by the entrance throughout the day. The ranger talks are a special highlight, as they are incredibly knowledgeable and will happily and honestly answer all questions you may have. They will also teach you how to pronounce the name of this place. Also, marvel at the fierce-looking Ki’i (wooden statues) while you try to decipher their meanings, sit on the beach and play a game of kōnane (a bit like checkers), take hundreds of pictures of the birds and plantlife throughout, and watch local crafters weave baskets, carve canoes or wooden images, keeping ancient techniques alive. Most days, you can also spot hundreds of Yellow Tang and Green Hawaiian Sea Turtles (honu) from the shore while you stroll around the Puʻuhonua grounds.

If you’re visiting other National Park Service sites such as Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park or Kaloko-Honokōhau during the same trip, it may be worth buying an Interagency Pass that will get your party into all U. S. National Parks, National Historical Parks, National Forests, National Monuments etc. for a year.

While you are in the area, we also recommend snorkeling at one of the prime snorkeling spots on the Big Island: Two Step, which is right next to the Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau.


Location

State Hwy 160, Hōnaunau, HI 96726

http://www.nps.gov/puho


Keauhou Bay and Keauhou Bay Beach Park

Keauhou Bay is a short stroll downhill from Hale Hāhālua. We like to walk down to the Bay for sunset, to visit the birthplace of Kamehameha III, or to join the lūʻau at the Outrigger hotel. And then, of course, there’s snorkeling with giant manta rays.

The water in the Bay is as clear and blue as it gets and there is decent snorkeling along the edges of the Bay. You can rent a canoe from the Keauhou Canoe Club, or join them for an early morning paddle out onto the ocean. Because the Bay is covered with concrete in large parts, it is more convenient than quaint, but the canoe club is a very fun and welcoming place, and there are always a few people happily hanging out at the small beach.

On your stroll along the shore, make sure to check out the remains of a historic Hawaiian village with some interpretive plaques on the rocky beach in front of the Outrigger.

Apparently, there used to be a small restaurant right in the harbor, but as of now (07/2023), there are no food or drink vendors we know of down in the Bay. You can always head over to the Outrigger hotel for a cocktail and manta ray night viewing from their “Rays on the Bay” platform, though.


Location

78-7127 Kaleiopapa St
Kailua-Kona, HI 96740